Monday, May 3, 2010

Top Ten

It was a day back in 1994. I was surfing the outside sandbars of the Civic Center/Inlet in Jupiter Fl. It was a classic 8 ft. solid swell coming from the north. I had probably been out there for about two hours. The set came in and on the third wave of the set I was in a good position. I paddled my ass off and took off. The movie in my mind of this wave goes like this. I look left on my backside and I think I can make it. Suddenly, I realize I am airborn my tails dropping down the face as I hold on to my rail for my life. I land half way down the face backwards. I know I'm done. Somehow my nose whips around and I am slotted DEEP with no control except my rail which I am holding onto for dear life. Closing and Opening this barrel was coming after me. About seven to eight seconds of hold tight andI see an opening. I cant beleive I might make it out. It's so VIVID. I shoot out of the spit and fly out the back screaming all the way.

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