GoPro Official Store: Wearable Digital Cameras for Sports

GoPro Official Store: Wearable Digital Cameras for Sports

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Outside Jupiter Inlet early 90's

I remember this day like it was yesterday. I woke up before sunrise and got my stuff ready. The report was for 6-8 ft. north swell and outside inlet had looked good the day before. I arrived at the beach around 7 A.M. There was only one guy out on a kayak. My buddy Chris Horan was on the beach and we talked for about fifteen minutes about if we thought it was makeable. It was jetting down the outside sandbar. Rights crossing the inlet. The kayaker came in and told us it was too fast for the kayak but thought it would be epic for surfing. We paddled out. Just the two of us for about an hour and a half. So many good waves. But this was the best. I took off on a set wave and headed right. The bottom dropped out on me but my rail stuck. UNDER THE CURTAIN set and pumping in the barrel. It could not have been more than 4 seconds but I will never forget that lip shooting over my head and finally getting spit out of the barrel. And to make it all better my good friend Jullian was paddling out and saw the whole thing. AWESOME. I screamed at the top of my lungs. I was so Stoked!!!!!

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Top Ten

It was a day back in 1994. I was surfing the outside sandbars of the Civic Center/Inlet in Jupiter Fl. It was a classic 8 ft. solid swell coming from the north. I had probably been out there for about two hours. The set came in and on the third wave of the set I was in a good position. I paddled my ass off and took off. The movie in my mind of this wave goes like this. I look left on my backside and I think I can make it. Suddenly, I realize I am airborn my tails dropping down the face as I hold on to my rail for my life. I land half way down the face backwards. I know I'm done. Somehow my nose whips around and I am slotted DEEP with no control except my rail which I am holding onto for dear life. Closing and Opening this barrel was coming after me. About seven to eight seconds of hold tight andI see an opening. I cant beleive I might make it out. It's so VIVID. I shoot out of the spit and fly out the back screaming all the way.